Singing the Sounds of

the Sea

Discover the Maldives’ musical side.

herever you go in the Maldives, there is music. From bands playing in cafes in bustling Malé to the beating drums played during the islands’ traditional festivals, to the sounds of nature above and below the ocean waves, an orchestra of experiences awaits visitors.

“I have collected many natural sounds from my journeys throughout my homeland.”

— Mariyam Unoosha, Maldivian musician

“The waves crashing on the beach, the sound of shells held up to my ear, the wind against the trees,” says Mariyam Unoosha, one of the Maldives’ most celebrated musicians. From the age of 17, she has been performing across the archipelago. She draws inspiration from each of the places she visits and incorporates the sounds and songs of the Maldives into her music.

Kamadhoo Island ticks all of the boxes for Unoosha. Located 80 miles north of the capital Malé, the forested island is ringed with white-sand beaches and waters that seem almost unnaturally blue.

Visitors can relax to the gentle sound of waves lapping at the shoreline. The Baa Atoll to which Kamadhoo Island belongs is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and the atoll’s Hanifaru Bay is famous as the world’s largest feeding zone for manta rays. Although diving has been prohibited in the bay since 2017 to protect the species, visitors can go on snorkel tours to witness the mantas glide effortlessly underwater. With water visibility as high as 130 feet, there’s no better place to see these magnificent rays as they gather in the hundreds during the peak season from May to November. Whale sharks are also known to swim in the area so visitors are in for the full experience.

“Underwater, it’s a whole new world,” says Unoosha. “The sounds of the water moving through the coral and sand, the sounds of fish swimming nearby, the ambiance is pure relaxation. Every time I go snorkeling, it makes my mind so calm and rejuvenates my soul.”

The music of Kamadhoo and the Baa Atoll plays beyond the ocean.

One of the Maldives’ most important cultural celebrations is the annual Eid al-Adha festival, known locally as Bodu Eid. During the festival (dates vary every year), Maldivians journey back to their home islands and celebrate with paint fights, feasts, music, and dancing in the streets.

“The best place to see and experience these festivals are on the islands, away from the capital, as they maintain the local culture,” says Unoosha. “Everyone participates during these festive events, both the young and the old.”

One of the main events during Bodu Eid is the boduberu dance, a traditional drum performance that combines singing, drumming, and dancing by men and women in traditional dress to “vibrate the island”, as the locals say. The dance starts off with 15 to 20 people but don’t be surprised if the whole island has joined in by the end.

“In the Maldives, there are so many traditional melodies and rhythms that originate from the Middle East and India. And the boduberu music originally came from the Middle East and India,” says Unoosha. “I have combined these styles in my music to create a fusion between the traditional and the modern.”

Only the finest boduberu drums are used in these performances. They are intricately etched in red, black, and yellow lacquer. Lacquerware arrived in the Maldives through ancient trade routes with China, and it was once made across the archipelago. Today, Thulhaadhoo Island in the Baa Atoll is one of the few places where artisans still practice this ancient art, adding lacquer to hand-carved objects in strips and polishing it using dried coconut palm leaves. As a finishing flourish, patterns are carved from memory into the lacquer to create the signature Maldivian floral motif.

The Maldivian cultural history trip continues at the National Museum.

Located at the old Sultan’s Palace in Malé, the museum houses traditional instruments such as boduberu drums as well as the minutes of a cabinet meeting famously held underwater in 2009 by former President Mohamed Nasheed to highlight the risks the Maldives faces from climate change. The museum also houses the instruments of the band Olympians, one of the Maldives’ first pop groups and darlings of the early music scene. Unoosha’s parents performed with the Olympians during the 90s, and watching their performances inspired her to become a musician.

“It was an exciting experience. Growing up, I got to see my parents get ready for shows and dress up as superstars,” says Unoosha. “My mother sings, and my father plays the keyboard, and together they have performed and recorded many songs.”

Located at the old Sultan’s Palace in Malé, the museum houses traditional instruments such as boduberu drums as well as the minutes of a cabinet meeting famously held underwater in 2009 by former President Mohamed Nasheed to highlight the risks the Maldives faces from climate change. The museum also houses the instruments of the band Olympians, one of the Maldives’ first pop groups and darlings of the early music scene. Unoosha’s parents performed with the Olympians during the 90s, and watching their performances inspired her to become a musician.

“It was an exciting experience. Growing up, I got to see my parents get ready for shows and dress up as superstars,” says Unoosha. “My mother sings, and my father plays the keyboard, and together they have performed and recorded many songs.”

Though the Olympians’ heyday has long since passed, the Maldivian music scene is thriving across Malé in places like the Hide Out Cafe, Jazz Cafe and SeaHouse Cafe.

One of Unoosha’s favorite places to watch live music and enjoy good food is at the SeaHouse Cafe, which has an open terrace overlooking the ocean toward Funadhoo.

“It’s always a great time at SeaHouse, everyone who is interested in music is there, and the view at sunrise is very beautiful,” says Unoosha.

She recommends that visitors get there early if they want to watch the sunrise. One of her favorite places to eat is at The Chef Mode Badhige, on Hulhumale, which serves authentic Maldivian comfort foods such as garudhiya (Maldivian tuna soup) as local musicians entertain guests while they dine. The newly opened Kalhu Odi restaurant at The Marina @ Crossroads is another must to experience Maldivian fine dining.
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